Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continue their creative dialogue with the duo’s latest co-designed Prada collection, unveiled simultaneously in Milan and Shanghai earlier today.
The duality of the show’s presentation – separate but synchronous – mimics the partnership of Prada and Simons, as well as the sartorial themes experienced on the Spring / Summer 2022 runway.
“A seduction by reduction”, we read in the exhibition notes of the collection. Indeed, the range is an exercise in the art of striptease – not by baring the body, but by reducing the clothes to their simplest form.
This exchange between the body and its clothes speaks of the very nature of sensuality, of the charged associations that we draw between bare skin and what covers it.
Hinting at the corsetry, the jackets are secured with loose lacing at the bust, showing a torso shine underneath. Mini skirts constructed with silk trains draw attention to the nudity of the models’ legs. Knit sweaters are cleverly constructed with ribs at the chest, adding shape to the generally flowy garment.
There were also pieces that in their flexibility suggested sex – bag-shaped dresses striking just above the ankle are pinched at the waist, defining the figure in a vague but intriguing way. The Miro-mini sheaths, barely tight, feature subtle darts from the bust to the hips, recognizing the anatomy below.
Sex is everywhere these days – on Instagram, on TV, in magazines. Prada and Simons have managed to refresh the concept of sex appeal in a way that doesn’t seem forced.
Cleverly simple, the clothes allow the wearer to really carry them, inhabit them – and not the other way around. In an age of boisterous fashion, designed to conquer Instagram’s algorithm, it’s refreshing to know that there is a real person – living, breathable flesh – underneath Prada’s subtly alluring garments.