The 6 next-generation New York designers who made it through this fashion week – WWD

The energy of New York was back in full force this season, from an empty parking lot on the Brooklyn River to the top of the Empire State Building, with the skyline as the backdrop for so many.

While many established designers returned to the catwalks this season for the first IRL shows in 18 months – from Tory Burch to Coach, Michael Kors to Christian Siriano – the shows stood out for the multitude of newcomers who either crossed the line. next major step in the evolutions of their collections or were entirely new on the scene.

Here, WWD highlights six talents who have made a strong impression during the spring 2022 season with their thoughtful presentations, focused visions and exciting clothing.

WILLY CHAVARRIA

When and where founded: New York in 2015.

The look: Chavarria is no stranger to the New York Fashion Week scene. In fact, he is one of the few male designers to have maintained an active presence. The brand’s DNA is rooted in social justice, love and human equality, filtered through an authentic approach to streetwear, incorporating chicano-influenced silhouettes and style that it gives credit to its own origin. ethnic and cultural and his desire to celebrate the Latin influence in fashion.

Her love for creating engaging shows with an inclusive cast is another constant, including her Spring 2018 collection at the Eagle Bar in New York City, which juxtaposes religious, low-rider, and leather bar influences.

Highlight of the spring 2022 collection: American classics amplified with couture constructions and several silhouettes that are sure to be influential, including the opening look, oversized high waisted pleated khaki pants with a hint of baby blue boxer briefs. Bell-sleeved shirts and long-waisted pants, a knee-level structure and bulbous curves in the back also emphasized the designer’s sculptural approach.

NYFW Impact: The recently appointed senior vice president of design at Calvin Klein has a rich resume ranging from stints at major brands American Eagle Outfitters and Ralph Lauren to niche players such as Voler and Dickies Construct. He also worked on the Yeezy label for over two years and was the Creative Director and Owner of Palmer Trading Co., a vintage store and clothing brand, for over a decade.. All of this should help him prepare for business success, if that’s what he wants. Declining to comment on business meetings or new accounts, the designer said, “We measure our success by the reach of our message of inclusion and empowerment – in this way, this has been our most seasoned season. successful to date. ” – Luis Campuzano

PUPPETS AND PUPPETS

When and where founded: Founded by interdisciplinary New York artist Carly Mark in 2019.

The look: With references to nineteenth-century court grandeur, the laid-back vibe of downtown New York, and childhood whimsy, Mark creates a quirky look each season guided by the ambition to create fashion. which also recognizes the past, present and future. With seasonal castings that resemble a high school cafeteria from the downtown creative elite, as well as Mark’s own history as an artist and actor on that scene, the brand has quickly established itself among the creators of underground fashion trends.

Highlight of the spring 2022 collection: After a runway hiatus during the pandemic, Puppets and Puppets returned to their exploration of form and construction – mixing chunky debutante-style evening wear from centuries past with modern American basics like knits and denim.

NYFW Impact: Over the past six months, Puppets and Puppets (PNP for short) has launched its own direct-to-consumer e-commerce site with pieces it sees as commercial distillations of its otherwise avant-garde designs. These items – like a small top-handle bag fitted with a resin cookie and a hand-knitted sweater spelling out “Puppets” (the name of Mark’s little dog) – were created as brand name business cards. to oil the rest of the machine.

Shortly after PNP’s e-commerce launch, the brand secured an exclusive with Ssense, which ran out of stock of Puppets and Puppets handbags within a week. Now, with an enlarged version of its signature handbag (Mark changed the affixed cookie, inserting a classic NY black and white), PNP will begin their market dates next week, opening their books to wholesale. worldwide for the first time. – Misty White Sidell

LUAR NYC

When and where founded: Founded in 2016 in New York City by designer Raul Lopez, who is also a co-founder of Hood by Air.

The look: Tight tailoring, deconstruction and subversive fashion, influenced by men’s clothing but distinctly through the prism of Lopez’s Dominican culture.

Favorite of the spring 2022 collection: The opening look, a black leather overcoat with harness details, shown on the always cool model Omahyra. It was the epitome of downtown style.

NYFW Impact: “This season has been pretty monumental for the brand as it’s been a huge comeback show after a few sabbaticals, and the collection was pretty personal to me,” said Lopez. “In addition to ready-to-wear, I introduced glasses and bags. We’ve had media placements from GQ, Vogue, Elle, Complex, Highsnobiety, Le Figaro and more. Lourdes Leon, Kerby Jean-Raymond, ASAP Rocky, Kerwin Frost, Selah Marley and many more attended the show on a Friday night, where it really felt like the New York energy was back. – Thomas Waller

SERGIO HUDSON

When and where founded: Founded in Los Angeles in 2014.

The look: A modern and exuberant take on classic American sportswear.

Highlight of the Fall 2021 collection (Hudson is see now, buy now): Any number of jumpsuits, brightly colored coats or one of the dazzling final dresses that exemplify Hudson’s vision of high octane glamor and black excellence.

NYFW Impact: “The show was an incredible success. Our collection was made available immediately after our fashion show. Since then, several styles have been selling, the media are enthusiastic, ”said Hudson. “Most importantly, Sergio Hudson’s customers and friends have shown a lot of support on social media and in stores.”

Sheila E kicked off the parade in song, and Audra McDonald wore a crimson wool-crepe off-the-shoulder ball gown to perform at Monday’s Met Gala. – TW

PIERRE DO

When and where founded: New York in 2018.

The look: A modernist, relaxed fit with an urban feel and elegant architectural shapes. Over time, the designer has interwoven more fluid and feminine layers to juxtapose them with more masculine silhouettes and ever stronger and harder accessories.

Highlight of the spring 2022 collection: While the emerging designer’s brand has made waves since its inception, spring marked Do’s first runway show. Located at Brooklyn’s Skyline Drive In Theater with quaint Manhattan backdrop, the designer debuted his new American look with a divine fit contrasting with softer layers and references to his Vietnamese heritage.

NYFW Impact: Announced Wednesday, Do was nominated for the CFDA American Womenswear Designer of the Year award. “We titled our show ‘Home’ because together we wanted to make an impact in our territory, NYC – to bring our families into our moment and share what we’ve built over the past three years,” Do said. . “The parade was our time to step into a new chapter, a new scene and tell our story. It was important to talk about representation, and our immigrant stories, but in our terms. The enthusiasm and the impact were immediate: we received so many requests for business meetings that we had to close our books! The press and publishers have been positive; Above all, the show gave us a point of connection with a larger audience, both IRL in New York but globally via social media. The show was an electrical connection point, the moment we could feel we had entered a new chapter. – Emily Mercer

CONNOR MCKNIGHT

Where and when founded: September 2020, Brooklyn, NY McKnight, whose resume includes stints at Kith and Bode, kicked off her collection amid the Black Lives Matter protests with comfy wardrobe basics based on silhouettes popular with black youth , but in updated materials. “My original collection was an ode to the black socialite and I reinvented silhouettes we’ve seen for years,” said McKnight, who is adept at designing everything from a shorts set to a bespoke suit.

The look: Relaxed fit, textured knits, technical details and contemporary workwear.

Highlights of spring 2022: A trendy and relaxed collection, mostly made up of unisex pieces, ranging from loose, street-ready sweatpants to a cropped leather jacket. For his springtime inspiration, he broadened his inclusive vision to what society considers “perfect families and their respective representations in pop culture”. His goal, he said, was to “reimagine the family to suggest a new idea of ​​perfection” – or “to provide alternatives to stereotypical characters in a family.”

Among McKnight’s favorites of the season were the goalie set created to resemble a woven beach chair, the fisherman’s tunic dipped in an organic indigo dye to mimic the ocean, the recycled polyester nylons and even the handmade water bottles. Other highlights include a knit skort that can double as a towel, organic cotton pajamas, a trench coat with a pleated back, and workwear-inspired striped pants.

NYFW Impact: Compared to the week of September 1-7, Connor McKnight’s Instagram account saw a 1,927% increase in content interactions and managed to reach 330% more accounts during NYFW. – Jean E. Palmieri