In a season full of standout shows, frantic news cycles, star-studded front rows and an array of directional messages, sheer fashion dominated the trend conversation.
“We love the idea of ’deconstructed grandeur’, where the sheer layers (ubiquitous in the collections) reveal the corsetry and bustier construction in a decidedly modern way,” said Moda Operandi’s April Hennig of the season’s trends. . Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman called it “body pride-inspired clothing,” referring to sheer layers and outer underwear.
The Rick Owens show, a fashion industry favorite, showcased some of the best sheer styles of the season. “Newer and utterly alluring were her languid, revealing dresses with long trains; her giant tulle skirts and chiffon A-line highs, built with endless godets,” WWD’s Miles Socha wrote in his review.
“It is a protest against conventional judgment. And that’s what I’ve dedicated my life to,” Owens said backstage at the spring collection.
“It’s a rejection of conventional beauty,” he continued. “I want to provide an alternative to the narrow parameters we’re stuck with.”
It was one of the most vibrant and beautiful protest collections in recent memory.
The Coperni show made waves with this now-iconic dress sprayed on Bella Hadid (it generated $26.3 million in media impact), but the French designer couple also delivered a solid collection, hitting many trends of the season, including sheer looks.
“Taking out all the sci-fi stuff, there was a lot of wearables in the range, which checked this season’s trend for boudoir styles, with outfits like negligees pulled diagonally over one shoulder,” wrote Joelle Diderich in her review of the collection. Sheer tank dresses with asymmetrical skirts and sultry sheer turtlenecks paired with baggy pinstripe work pants were prime examples of the trend.
LaQuan Smith, one of the originators of the sheer fashion trend, presented a sexy collection full of sheer and playful looks with daytime options and bold colors.
“What I really wanted to try to achieve this season was expand my product categories,” Smith said backstage. “Obviously women come to me for sexy evening and cocktail wear, but I wanted to expand it with daywear while still being funky, sexy and flashy.”
Prada, Ester Manas, Valentino and Salvatore Ferragamo are other designers who have pushed the pure trend forward.